It’s a family affair...

When family calls you do not hesitate. When Neapolitan family requires your presence you do not have a choice! Therefore, the four of us travelled back to the roots over half-term... to bella Napoli... despite Covid. 

In order to enter the region of Campania we need to get tested, so 72 hours beforehand we diligently stood in line at a Parisian lab and the held up our heads to have a cotton swab poked up our nostrils. Ahhh, cosa non si fa per la famiglia?!?

All this to participate at my little niece’s first communion which in Southern Italy is nearly as important as a girl’s wedding. All the preparation had been made for a full blown bridal celebration but then had to be reduced to a handful of family members a few days before due to tightening of Covid regulations. Nevertheless, the main character of the day was happy because her cousins had defeated the odds and travelled from Paris just for her.

A short church service will lots of social distancing reminders and a scrumptious home-cooked feast at my sister-in-law's flat rather than the planned catered event in a smart castle (?!?) overlooking the Bay of Naples was marked by loud discussions about the pros and cons of the current political situation and the Covid-related suffering of the local economy. "La familia" was not completely reunited due to number restrictions but those of us who had managed to attend the gathering thoroughly enjoyed our short time together.

Bella guagliòna mia, tanti auguri per la tua Prima Comunione. Ti aspettiamo a Parigi... 

Ibiza is World Heritage

Ibiza’s claim to fame is its status as one of Europe’s most lit places to party, but there’s so much more to Ibiza Town, the Balearic Island’s capital, than raves, 24-hour clubs, and study abroad spring breakers. To start, there’s Dalt Vila, a fortified medieval old town perched on a cliff that offers sweeping views of the Mediterranean Sea atop 16th-century battlements. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Perched on a small mountain next to the sea and overlooking the town is the fortified old town of Dalt Vila which translates to "Upper Town".

Originally called Ibosim and founded by the Phoenicians, Dalt Vila has been added to by successive occupiers and was once one of the most important coastal cities in the Mediterranean. The last addition was the Renaissance defensive walls that surround it, which Kings Charles I and Philip II of Spain had constructed to defend against the French and the Ottomans.

Walking into the main square, Plaza de Vila, many restaurants, art galleries and shops are closed due to lack of tourists.

The Catalans were the first to penetrate Dalt Vila from within and by doing so, crushed Moorish rule. 

As legend has it, the brother of the Emir that controlled Ibiza was deeply jealous of his sibling and had betrayed him to the Catalan pretenders. He told them the whereabouts of a secret tunnel that came out at a small chapel, which afterwards was named in honour of San Ciriaco, the Patron Saint of Ibiza.

Inside the heart of Villa Dalt where the cost per m2 is anything between 5000 and 10'000.- Euros.

Looking down from the battlements by the Cathedral of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, allows for a  wonderful panoramic view over the city and the harbour.

Santo Domingo church, built in the 17th century, is attached to the Monastery of the same order, and it is the second largest temple in the isle, after the Cathedral.

The Cathedral of Ibiza came about after the conquest of Ibiza by Catalan troops in 1235, and it takes up the space that, until then, had been occupied by the town’s mosque.

When the Bishopric of Ibiza was created in 1762, this was only parish on the island. It became a Cathedral and was dedicated to Saint Mary of the Snows.

Notre Dame's facade

Seven years ago a lovely friend and Catholic scholar gave me a tour around the outside of the cathedral of Notre Dame. Many little details popped into my mind when I incredulously watched the roof burn down on Monday evening on my i-phone screen while travelling in Spain.

My mind boggles when I stop to think that the fire was spotted at 18:30 and fifteen minutes later the entire world was watching the sad event unfold in real time.

Today I decided to share my post I wrote in 2012:

Taxi drivers tell me that their most requested destination is Notre Dame de Paris. The cathedral will be celebrating its 850th anniversary this December. What better reasons to take a closer look myself?

It was the first place both my mother AND my mother-in-law wanted to visit when they came to stay. My mum still remembers watching the Queen on telly visiting the cathedral decades ago.

The façade of the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris is an icon known throughout the world. Our guide told us first off that we needed to be looking in 3D. Up, down and beyond - certainly not at her - while she shared the secrets hidden in plain sight in the facade's architecture, their sculptures and stained glass windows.

She enlightend us about gothic style, the rose windows and the pointed arches leading our eyes up by optical illusion. We learnt about heavenly elements contrasting with material shapes in form of circles and squares. We went from portal to cathedra (the bishop's throne).

For a whole 90 minutes our wonderfully passionate New Yorker (married to a francais) guide enchanted us with explanations about The Holy Trinity, the Old Testament, the New Testament, the promise of the past leading to the fullfillment of the future. She told us about the Angels, the Apostels, Isaac & Abraham, Adam & Eve, David & Goliath, the Saints of Paris and even Queen Sheeba. She revealed repesentations of the Liberal Arts, the zodiac, devils, dragons and hidden snakes. At this point we hadn't even entered into cathedral yet.

Now, should your children ever say visiting a cathedral is boring - think again kids! There is a whole load of action to be found in the facade of Notre Dame de Paris, you just need the right person to unveil it.

Christmas in London

It is time to head back... leaving Expat boy behind for him to finish his six-month internship at one of London’s swankiest hotels, the rest of the family hopped in the black cab taking us to St.Pancras station where we heavy-heartedly caught the Eurostar across the channel to Paris.

Five days... and it seems like we know the city. We went from Christmas Carol services at St.Martin in the Fields to watching a football match at Fulham stadium. We had lunch at Quaglino’s, tea at the National Portrait Gallery and dinner at the Aquashard. We loved the Lion King musical and enjoyed skating at Somerset House.

We strolled along the London Southbank and took lots of photos on the Millenium Bridge. We opted not to pay 18.- GBP entrance per person to visit St.Paul’s Cathedral! Seriously?!? I have an objection, a mix of meanness and principle, to paying an entrance fee to see a place of worship. We attended a Catholic Sunday mass St.Paul’s Church instead and celebrated a sung eucharist on Christmas Day in an Anglican Church.

We hit Harrods on Boxing Day and couldn’t miss checking out Harvey Nichols’ Christmas Wonderland window displays. Fortnum&Mason’s, Liberty’s, Hamleys, Maison Assouline, Waterstones and Lillywhites were duly visited as were Bond Street and Covent Garden.

A teenage tour led us through Abercrombie&Fitch, Hollister and Thomas Hilfiger until we found what we were looking for at TopShop... where else?!? And how could I resist Victoria’s Secret?!?

Peggy Porschen and Spectrum were a must see if only for Expat with Kids Instagram account.

Carnaby Street and Kingsley’s Court were much to Expat Girl’s liking while a pub dinner at Shepherd market was a true British treat for the whole family.

A quick walk in Green Park for some fresh air while bumping into the squadron of the Queen’s Life Guards in front of Buckingham Palace and trying to avoid the horrendous crowds heading towards Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland.

By which time we were ready for some real Neapolitan food at Da Maria in Notting Hill just in time to watch the Napoli vs Inter match on Italian SkyTV!
A well deserved rest at the Savoy lounge covered in Christmas galore topped off our London holiday experience.

And although Expat boy could not join us for all the fun, it was great being together again these past days for we’ll have many happy memories to look back on when Expat Mummy finally got her British Christmas festivities after two decades of Natale alla Napoletana.

Annabel’s night club will have to wait for next time...

Carol Service at St. Martin in the Fields

Lion King at the Lyceum theatre

Christmas vibes at Quaglino's

View from the Aquashard

St.Paul's Cathedral admired from the outside

Panoramic view on the Millenium Bridge

Skating at Somerset House

Harvey Nichols' window champagne display

Burlington passage 

Pimp my car

Dinner at a local pub

When you go over the top with Christmas decorations

Peggy Porschen's Christmas wreath 

Hotel Claridges' tree of love 

Changing of a guard? 

Liberty at Christmas

Paddington Bear at Hamley's

Maison Assouline's inspiring world of beyond!

Covent Garden

Hitting the sales at Harrods

Christmas galore at the Savoy Hotel

Dinner Menu at Da Maria's

Spectrum's Instagram set-up

Annabel's at Mayfair

A soft spot for the Swedes

I have a soft spot for Sweden... always have had. During our Expat travels my best friends in Milano, Madrid and in Paris were Swedes. My Mum loved Scandi furniture and Dad's first family car was a Volvo. They gave me a Swedish name that would sound the same in every language. And each Christmas my Mum would bring out her handmade Swedish ornaments to cover the house with.

I have inherited many of the little Swedish trinkets and every year I add my own to the Father Christmas collection that began back in the 60s. Therefore around the end of November I religiously head to the Swedish Church in Paris - recognisable by its red brick façade and steeple inspired by Swedish architecture - to attend their Christmas Bazaar.

You can’t miss the Swedish flag waving in the wind which indicates the church from afar. Whiffs of Glögg welcome me before I even enter the gate. A group of smiling faces greet me with a hearty "Hej Hej", many wearing their traditional Swedish costume. I skipped the salmon and cheese stand to head straight to the ornaments stand, followed by the candle stand and then to admire all the Scandi handcrafted design objects. Of course, I cannot leave without some Pepperkakor (ginger snap biscuits) and a bottle of Glögg, the Swedish mulled wine.

As I have learnt from my Swedish friends Glögg is an essential part of the lead up to Christmas because there is no party throughout Advent without a good glass of Glögg.

Everyone is welcome...

... to the Svenska kyrkan.

The little touches of Scandinavian Christmas decor

It's the little things that count in life.

All handmade in Sweden.

Fallen in love with this little couple.

How can I resist this one?

All bundled up!

Hand-stitched needle cushions... does anyone still use those?

The sweetie stand! 

Swedish cookbook anyone?

And in the midst of it all... a portrait of the Swedish Royal Couple. 

Swedish salmon

Reindeer?!?

That bottle has my name written all over it.

Should I or should I not?!?

Now, we know who Stieg Larson is, what about the rest?

Getting some hot food...

... to enjoy at the little table between the church pews!

See you again next year!