Napoli's Golden Boy

Making nearly 200 appearances in a golden era for Serie A side Napoli, Diego Maradona was affectionately named "El Pibe del Oro" or "The Golden Boy" and it's not hard to see why. With 81 goals for the Italian giants, garnering two titles and a Coppa Italia, Maradona shone with Partenopei, becoming one of the greatest players in the club's history. It was in Naples that Maradona’s status as a footballing deity, at least as far as the inhabitants of this gritty southern Italian city were concerned, was confirmed.

Nowhere was Maradona's hypnotic talent and personality more adored than in Naples helping the unfancied club to usurp Milan and Juventus. It really was a match made in heaven, the diminutive street urchin from the wrong side of the tracks in partnership with a dramatic, chaotic city in southern Italy that felt undervalued and looked down upon from the great cultural cities further north, of Rome, Turin and Milan.

"Napoli non e Italia" (Napoli is not Italy), Maradona used to say. He felt right at home in a city where wealth, poverty, violence and football all co-existed on a daily basis.

He might have partied hard and with the wrong people, but the good memories are stronger and here Diego Armando Maradona will forever take his seat next to God under the "cielo azzurro" of Napoli.

It took Napoli mayor only 24 hours after Maradona's death to rename the San Paolo's football stadium in his honour: Diego Armando Maradona stadium.

Forza Napoli SEMPRE!

Curva B, in infamous fan club area of the stadium turned into an improvised Christmas shrine.

This mural dating from 1990 by Argentine artist Francisco Bosoletti has turned into a shrine since his death on Nov 25th, 2020.

The adoration is plastered across the city.... literally!

Little does it matter that Maradona played for Napoli over 30 years ago... he is still omnipresent...

... in every nook and cranny of this city...

... where even Japanese Napoli fans welcome!

This mural by street artist tvboy lasted only a few days back in 2018.

Souvenirs, souvenirs!!!

The most Neapolitan of them all: Ad10s Diego!

Today is a sad day in our household. With a Neapolitan husband and an Argentinean son football comes close to religion. Expat boy's hero - for good and for worse - has taken his last dribble and left many soccer fans across the globe feeling like having lost a father, a brother, or a friend. 

In Napoli Maradona had risen to God-like status during his 7-year stay. The infatuation is difficult to explain as the people's love for him is deeply visceral and moves through generations. 

Maradona was presented to the world media as a Napoli player on 5 July 1984, where he was welcomed by 75,000 fans at the Stadio San Paolo which at the time was an unprecedented welcoming ceremony. A local newspaper stated that "despite the lack of a mayor, houses, schools, buses, employment and sanitation, none of this matters because we have Maradona".

Maradona played for Napoli at a period when north–south tensions in Italy were at a peak due to a variety of issues, notably the economic differences between the two. Led by Maradona, Napoli won their first ever Italian Championship in 1986–87. He won the Scudetto (league title) for this city not once but twice. 

Murals of Maradona were painted on the city's ancient buildings, and newborn children were named in his honour. He had restored the pride in being Neapolitan, in being Southern-Italian! His were indelible years in the memory of all Neapolitans. He had worked himself into the hearts and the history of this city. A symbol of a coveted redemption and a desired resurrection.

It has been said by many that he represents the synthesis between genius and recklessness. The Argentine was ungovernable and governor at the same time, in football and in life. His weaknesses and his errors (notably off the soccer field) are equal to his immense greatness to cancel themselves in the myth. 

His most famous goal remains the one scored against England during the 1986 FIFA World cup. "A little with his head, and a little with the hand of God" as the champion said himself: "Ahora sí puedo contar lo que en aquel momento no podía, lo que en aquel momento definí como «La mano de Dios»... Qué mano de Dios, ¡fue la mano del Diego!". 

Grazie per averci fatto sognare. Grazie Diego!

One of the seven wonders of the world

We made it to Iguazu, the most Northern tip of Argentina that borders with Brazil and Paraguay.

I figured my boy needed to see more than just the capital. It's like seeing Paris and thinking you know France.

So, we checked into the most beautiful hotel right in the middle of the National Park and strolled out the door to find one of the seven wonders of the world at our feet: las caterates de Iguazu!

Created in 1934 the Iguazu National Park preserves an important sector of the Paranaense jungle and was declared Unesco world heritage in 1984.

Powerful, glorious, enormous, majestic and unique would be my description. Wet and dangerous stated Expat boy even though he admitted they were impressive! "Iguazu" means great waters in Guarani, the local dialect. The upper edge of the entire falls from side to side is over 3 km long. Three quarters of the falls belong to Argentina and one quarter to Brazil. In three days we walked over them, under them and even through them from every side possible. Expat boy has seen enough water to last him a lifetime.

He did shine (and shiver) when we boarded a speedboat that took us right up the river and under the falls where needless to say we got soaking wet. Despite the 500 horsepower motors I felt like a ping pong ball bouncing over the rapids. Ahh, the things you do to keep your kids entertained... but it was worth seeing the thrill in his eyes as the water pounded down on us. I closed mine right after!

Majestic and magnificent Iguazu falls

See our hotel tucked away in the jungle?

One of the seven wonders of the world

Expat boy getting wet and loving it!

Puente Internacional which links Argentina to Brazil

The Brazilian view of the waterfalls

Spot the boat below the falls? That's us getting soaked!

A tour through the jungle for added adventure.

We were told there were pumas and even leopards lurking in the bushes...

 Evening view from our hotel terrace

We did see lots of monkeys who tried to sneak into our rooms. ;)

Falling in love all over again...

So, I spoke too early. It just took me a while to get into the groove.

After walking around the capital under the pouring rain for two days, I started recognizing the city I had left 15 years ago thanks to the melancholic Argentine touch - so well conveyed through their music - that covered the city along with the grey skies.

Familiar smells started emerging such as charcoal grilled meat on the parilla, whiffs of empanadas freshly baked, the tang of floors cleaned with bleach, sprinkles of perfume emerging from the beauty stores, the typical bouquet of real leather, the distinct stinging odor of mothball with which coats had been stored for too long a time, the smell of incense sticks along the hippie-style open air markets, and scent of wet foliage and humid grass.

The Argentinean accent so soft and melodious rocked my mind into places and scenes I had forgotten and enticed me to listen to the people's everyday conversations.

The familiar sing song of a bird that searches for his mate during this time of the year made me smile and my heart soared when the Jacarada trees started blooming by the end of the week. To me these trees symbolize the good times we had in Argentina as they announced the beginning of spring. Personally the purple coloured flowers will forever be linked with the birth of my son who was born in Buenos Aires on a rainy full-moon October night sixteen years ago.

We met with family and friends and discussed politics and football. We witnessed the Presidential elections where no president was chosen and watched the Rugby World Cup where the Puma's lost against the Aussies. Had we just stayed two days longer we could have spent the day with our loved ones enjoying a typical Sunday asado and witnessed Expat boy's favourite football team Boca Juniors win the National football championship.

It has been a magnificent week. So many memories have surfaced over these past days, so many stories to tell my boy which I had forgotten about, so many places we used to visit that we have rediscovered.

Many things have changed in this nation since we left. Many have stayed the same, many for which I fell in love with this country the first time around and if I stay a little longer I am in danger of falling in love all over again!

Hasta luego Buenos Aires. We will be back!!!

Just landed and touring the city already...

Recoleta cemetery with the first jacaranda tree spotted so far

Monuments to honour the dead

The most famous Argentinean: Eva Peron, first Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952... not loved by all!

 A typical mercadillo selling local goods

Alcohol is forbidden on Election Sunday

San Telmo,  the oldest barrio (neighborhood) of Buenos Aires characterized by its colonial buildings.

Mate is a traditional Argentinean caffeine-rich infused drink. It is prepared by steeping dried leaves of yerba mate in hot water and is served with a metal straw from a shared hollow calabash gourd.

Colourful Buenos Aires

If football is a religion, La Bombonera is its shrine!

No rush in this part of the world!

The 29th of every month is Gnocchi day in Argentina! This tradition was brought over by the Italian immigrants who were on a meager salary. The day before pay day, ñoquis became the best option because not only they can be made cheaply, but also they are nutritional and very belly-filling.

Plaza San Martin

The most spectacular centenary trees...

... as well as National flags are to be spotted thoughout the city.

This is what the English left behind: Lemon Meringue Pie

What intriguing history is hidden behind these gates?

Some fascist architecture knitted into everyday life

The new kid on the block: Palermo Soho...

... posh around the outside but still Buenos Aires on the inside. ;)

A very typical sight.. the dog walkers!

Tempting and colourful

La Boca, neighborhood famed for its colorful houses, its tango and its soccer team where new immigrants first established themselves when they arrived in Buenos Aires in the 1830s.

Has it been too long ago?

It has been a long, long time, maybe too long to feel familiar with a place I used to call home.

Returning to Buenos Aires after 15 years has left me slightly perplexed: it somehow still looks the same but it does not feel the same anymore. Despite its economic and political difficulties, it has most definately leapt into the 21st century. WIFI is available everywhere and the romantic 1950 post war Southern European vibe that reigned (the Expat) world of the Menem area has turned distinctly international. MacDonalds and Starbucks are overpowering local cafe houses, the best fish in town is now available in Chinatown and the market of San Telmo looks and feels like the one of Montmartre in Paris. Tourists are taken advantage of just like every else in the world.

Don't get me wrong, the Argentineans are still as charming as ever but survival mode has kicked in and though they have not lost their love to communicate with foreigners as their curiosity and forthcomingness remains unique, there is a distinct shift in interests.

I expected to feel more emotional, I was sure I would shed a few tears - and to be honest I did upon my arrival while waiting for my luggage - but other than that it seems our two years we called Buenos Aires home is too far removed to reach.

I have giant flashbacks as I drive or walk past places I forgot existed; how could I not remember the Carrefour I used to shop in every week?!? Obviously was not a priority even back in those days. Buenos Aires Design which used to be the hippest corner of town in our time had completely slipped my mind until I walked passed it sheltering from the pouring rain. I am surprised how little actually has changed in terms of urban construction in the city center as I recognize all our old haunts and familiar commutes. 

However, the old beaten up taxis and microbuses have disappeared to be replaced with more modern versions and there parts of town now called Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood which I still need to explore.

I am happy to see that over a decade and a half later the locals still hang out in the parks sharing their Maté tea on a lovely Sunday spring afternoon but I am missing the city's flavour as I realize I cannot link it to the so familiar smell of the city I used to know.