The spirit of Haute Couture

Honour where honour is due. Prestigious names that the whole world dreams of. Whether it be for a monogram or simply for a spot of window shopping, usually Avenue Montaigne is bustling with tourists and locals enjoying an extraordinary day among the grand hotels and luxury brands.

Last week, I was pretty much on my own strolling down the most sophisticated avenue of Haute Couture savouring the fashion paradise offering window after window of high-class prêt-à-porter and luxury labels. Obviously, luxury does not rank high on priorities these days albeit the holiday season, nevertheless is was a sad sight peeping through the windows and seeing empty shops with bored staff waiting in vain for clients. 

The Avenue Montaigne, at the very heart of the Golden Triangle, is punctuated with world-class boutiques, from French brands to Italian designers.

The iconic Chanel store encompasses 400 square meters of sleek interior mirroring the brand’s signature aesthetics with tweed sofas and an elegant palette of beige, white and gold. 

The Dior boutique is known for its eclectic changing façades. It was built in 1865 by the illegitimate son of Napoleon. In 1947, Christian Dior, presented an impressive 90-piece collection to magazine editors at his recently acquired Parisian townhouse on Avenue Montaigne. 

The Christian Dior shop at 30 Avenue Montaigne is currently closed for large works. The reopening is planned in 2021 with 3,000 m² of sales space, a "Galerie Dior" and a garden restaurant.

The Théâtre des Champs-Elysées was made famous by the creation of Stravinsky’s “Rite of Spring” in 1913. Today's Parisian reality looks quite different!

A dreamy festive window by Repetto.

Fendi’s Paris flagship is known for its Baguette Wall, dedicated to the house’s cult handbag style – perfect for those who are looking for a one-of-a-kind item.

This is Paris. This is the avenue. This is Dior, Dietrich and diamonds. This is where icons and trends are born and love stories have played out since 1913: the Hotel Plaza Athéenée!

X-mas plans have changed...

Change of plans... our Christmas in Naples has been cancelled due to Italy going into lockdown as of Dec 24th. Before we knew it, our family of four were on the last plane back to Paris transiting through a completely deserted airport.

Long gone are the days of pre-Christmas holiday travel stress when easyjet canceled flights at midnight on Dec 23rd or Alitalia doesn't deliver your suitcase until 4 days after Christmas and you've been wearing the same clothes throughout the all the festivities... yes, we've had our fair share of Christmas travel adventures!

This morning I was out and about early to avoid the Parisian crowds... orata, gamberi, tortellini, panettone, dolcetti for the Italian tradition... turkey, cranberry sauce, mince pies, christmas pudding, mistletoe, poinsettia and lots of Christmas glitter for the Anglo saxon celebration. 

Luckily I had secretly popped out to buy a proper Christmas tree the week before... all it took was Expat Girl expressing a wish to have a tree that reaches the ceiling... how could I refuse... I know, it is not really sustainable... but then again we have been stuck inside for most of this year. This was my treat!

So, we are now in business for Neapolitan Natale tonight and British Christmas tomorrow! I'm just wondering if I can sneak in a French "Bûche de Noël" into the menu.

Tanti Auguri di Buon Natale! MERRY CHRISTMAS!

First time we'll be spending Christmas in Paris

Deserted Napoli airport on Dec 23rd

Woman on a mission early morning Dec 24th

A little culinary indulgence at La Grande Epicerie

Our local market in full swing

Thank Goodness for Marks & Sparks, where else would I find all the British Christmas goodies?

Who knew that Mistletoe was called Gui in French?

Paris' Christmas windows

Every December many Parisians stroll down to the 9th arrondissement to admire the Christmas windows of the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, glittering and shining even at 10 am in the morning. Much to the childrens' delight many mechanical figurines make the windows even more exciting. 

I must be honest, despite Covid restriction I did venture out an hour to take a quick peak, it is a tradition I just cannot skip... especially during current times when the Christmas cheer is hard to come by.

I did not dare enter the department stores thinking I might be pushing my luck but it was a real treat to watch the toddlers standing in awe in front of the colourful windows... a true breath of fresh air for the lungs, for the mind and for the soul.

A colourful moment at the market

Today I ventured down to the local market curious to see how they coped with the government's Covid restrictions knowing that the Avenue President Wilson's market is the largest open-air market in Paris. Apparently this is where all the top three-star chefs come pick the best products.

As always, there were multiple stands with a wide array of prepared foods, cheese, produce, fish, meat, breads and pastries, olives, dried fruits and flowers as well as some less interesting clothing goods. 

What changed was the space left between each stand and the little amount of people. Usually this place is brimming with shoppers and you need to squeeze around the food trolleys and baskets. Today, however, there were few queues at select stands and lots of moving space to avoid close contact with others. All in all, it was a rather pleasant experience albeit the untypical circumstances.

What makes the farmers' market such a special place is that it creates a community around food. Just take a glimpse of some of the lovely stands that typify the President Wilson market:

Who can resist "produits italiens"?

A splash of my favourite colour

Sheets of see-thru plastic are wrapped around most stalls

 in order to protect produce

A tropical vibe

Ratatouille anyone?!?

Essential ingredients for a "Soupe à l'onion"

Loyal clientele

Home-made apple juice

Loving these colours

Fresh eggs, anyone?

My favourite fish mongrel

I'll take a kilo of that, please.

May is not a month for oysters as it does not have an "r"

Could not resist a shot of the fish packaging

Galeries Lafayette at Christmas

No Parisian Christmas would be complete without a visit to the Galeries Lafayette, known for its epic Christmas tree under the dome and the work-of-art window displays that kids and adults line up to admire. Did you know that more than ten million visitors are eager to discover the Christmas windows every year?

Originally, the Galeries Lafayette started illuminating their facade in 1912 for specific events. But it wasn’t until the 20s / 30s that it became recurring and spectacular.

The Christmas celebrations started in 1920 with the annual internal Christmas party. The employees were invited, with their children, to come and enjoy an on-stage show and admire the Christmas tree, both of which were placed just in front of the stately staircase, under the beautiful dome.

I might add it is the ONLY time of the year I visit this department store which a is Parisian icon but sadly has become overrun by tourists.

Galeries Lafayette have prepared a buzzing Christmas this time! How come? Because this year's theme of the department store, it's the Christmas beehive! All off the 11 windows are inspired by the precious bees helping with the Christmas magic while preparing their own party.

The traditional Christmas tree is sprinkled with winter flowers and XXL bulbs while at the top, queen bee is be proudly sitting, admiring the work of the Christmas beehive that awakes every 30 minutes and has the bees flying under the cupola.

The magic of Christmas usually takes hold of the capital a few weeks before the holidays but these past two years no matter how hard anybody tries the "gilets jaunes" and the general strikes are taking their toll on the festive mood throughout the city and the country!

Bienvenue aux Galeries Lafayette de Paris

Little hands all over...

Christmas deco reflections

Love this colour combination

From Galeries Lafayette's rooftop terrace, you can have fun looking out for the Opera Garnier, the Eiffel Tower and the other jewels of the French capital!

Adding to the holiday joy that makes the charm of winter in Paris 

is Galeries Lafayette's own skating rink.

Enjoying an unobstructed view on Paris 

Montmartre and Sacre Coeur in the background

Queen bee towering above all

Loving all the glitter and sparkle but not so much the price tags!

Time for a holiday cheers!