My little Paris

A very popular Parsian site called My little Paris supplies my inbox with secret and unusual addresses inspiring me to explore this city day after day since my arrival in 2011.

This week their team has taken a look at how Paris has changed over the past decade. Given that we have lived through these changes without looking back too often, I realize that seen from the sky, Paris has not really changed. The Eiffel Tower has not moved a bit, the Sacré-Coeur is still on its hill. And yet everything has changed. Or rather, Paris has changed us. Made us more mobile, more united, greener, and more committed.

Ten years of overwhelming events and small urban revolutions that have influenced our lifestyles... made us more self-conscious, reflective and protective. And you, what Parisian event has changed you the most in the last 10 years?

View from the top of the Eiffel Tower back in 2011

My very first guided tour in Paris in Sept 2011

When you can't wait to hit the slopes...

Last time Paris saw this much snow was in 2013 when an inspired skier posted a video of himself skiing down the front of Montmartre. Needless to say it went viral.

This year there have been quite a few copy cats hanging around Montmartre's "slope" waiting for their 15 minutes of glory.

However, I was surprised to find two fully equipped skier attempting to ski the Trocadero gardens yesterday?

I guess these two just couldn't wait to hit the slopes... oh wait, is that my daughter?!? Just kidding.

Skiing on Montmartre

Last Monday it snowed 24 hours straight in Paris. The next day I came across this video. I wish Fred would call me next time so I can join him.



Unfortunately I missed the skier by a day, for on Wednesday the sun was shining and the snow melting rapidly.

BFFs on tour with BPP - Better Photos Paris

Today is the Flaneuses' Creative Editor's birthday. Her passion? Photography and Paris. What better way to celebrate than to take her off on a tour with Better Paris Photos. I had been on one of their tours last year and loved our guide's personality, attitude, sense of humour and professionalism.

We set up a meeting point at Anvers metro station. We had a different guide this time. A bubbly character called Manon greeted us with a charming Canadian accent. She turned out to be a little lady with a big smile and an infinite source of information and tips on how to make the most out of your camera. I discovered that even my pink little pocket Sony can produce miracles given the right treatment.

Huddled next to the majestic steps leading to the Sacre Coeur trying to protect ourselves and our cameras from the rain, Manon showed us what we have in our hands. Her flowery, technical explantions were so explicit that even we - complete laymen - could understand them.

She sent us off to take some pictures of the nearby carrousel and then gave us lots of positive critisism. She told us to use our bodies and bend our knees.

After slowly making our way up to the Sacre Coeur snapping an infinity of shots we decided to take a break because the weather was just too cold. But our lesson continued with instructions of how to take a perfect indoor photo. We continued to take pictures of one another with lots of giggling going on, until after much trail and error, we managed to get a decent shot with the proper background, the right lighting and a dignified portrait.

Manon shared a passionate talk about photography and helped us open our eyes to discover new surroundings. Her motto: "Garder un esprit flexible dans nos pensées" (Maintain a flexible spirit while thinking). I really like that approach. It turns out to be a perfect description of our Expat life.

Mille mercis Manon for a wonderful photographic tour of our cameras and our minds. We all thoroughly enjoyed sharing your knowledge and professionalism and lots of laughs in between.

Slightly sidetracked...

One of my absolute favourite spots is the fabric market at Pigalle. Located at the base of the stairs to the Sacré Coeur in Montmarte, Paris’ largest textile market never ceases to delight budding couturiers and homemade seamstresses including myself. The market quartier includes the largest and oldest department store Le Marché Saint Pierre.

It is worth a visit if only for its impressive building and the fantastic view onto the Sacre Coeur from their 5th floor.

However.... to get there you must walk along the Boulevard de Rochechouart. Admittedly, the Tati department store is not recommendable but the shoe stores along the boulevard are to die for. Not great quality but absolutely fabulous shoes for one season.

Forever the shoe goddess (only my family knows how many pairs I really posess)! I cannot - just CANNOT - walk past those stores without having a peak. This time my mind was blown away: from sexy high-heeled red boots to golden funky pailette platforms they had it all. The selection of pink boots were extremely tempting..but then again...I'm in Paris...that would be an absolute fashion faux pas.  I'm thinking: "I can always wear them in Madrid or Lugano and pass them off as the latest trend?!?"

I am resisting the urge. I am resisting BIG TIME! If I start to shop I will not leave without AT LEAST 10 pairs of shoes. At Euro 29.- a pair who can say no?

But then again I DID come to buy material, after all. I decided to move along swiftly and am very proud of myself!

La butte de Montmartre

La butte de Montmartre is a hill which is 130 metres high, giving its name to the surrounding district, in the north of Paris.

Montmartre is talked about by Parisians the way New Yorkers talk about the village. It's not what it used to be. It's like Disneyland, the artists can't afford to live here anymore and it is overrun by tourists. However, having taken a look at the impressive Basilique Sacre Coeur and the view from the Square Louise Michel, you can understand why.

Pablo Picasso, Amedeo Modigliani, and other impoverished artists lived and worked in a commune, a building called Le Bateau-Lavoir, during the years 1904–1909. Composers, including Satie (who was a pianist at Le Chat Noir), also lived in the area.

There is a small vineyard in the Rue Saint-Vincent, which continues the tradition of wine production in the Île de France. It yields about 500 litres per year.

Montmartre was the setting of the film La Môme, (La vie en rose) which elaborates on the life of famous French singer Edith Piaf and her times in the slums of Paris, and of Amélie, the story of a young Parisian woman determined to help the lives of others and find her true love, is set in an exaggeratedly quaint version of contemporary Montmartre.

A walk around the backside of Montmartre

Friday morning I joined a tour organized by Paris Walks, an English Language Walking tour company founded 15 years ago. What better way to take a look at the exotic French impressionists' lives than guided by a Brit with a sense of humour.

Ready to hit Paris' most trodden pavement

We discovered where Van Gogh lived with his brother. We heard about the latest theory about how he lost his ear during a sword duell with Gauguin. We were told how La Gouloue invented the Can-Can dance. We located where Toulouse-Lautrec danced on the tables despite his illness. And we stood in awe infront  of the windmill where Renoir painted his famous "Bal au moulin de la Galette".

Starting point: The Moulin Rouge

 Moulin de la Galette

Restaurant de la Galette

Ever heard of the famous Dalida? A world-famous singer and actress born in Egypt with Italian origins but naturalised French. In 1973, she recorded a French version of the Italian song "Paroles Paroles", originally performed by Mina, with her close friend Alain Delon.

Dalida's house

Colourful facades....

and vintage cars ....

"Una signora siciliana" who moved to Montmartre in 1936.

She is celebrating her 90th birthday this year!

The opening scene to the flim "Amélie"

A wonderful day to be exploring Paris

Ever wondered where the wine "Clos de Montmartre" comes from?

The "Lapin Agile" was a favorite spot for struggling artists and writers, including Picasso, Modigliani, Apollinaire, and Utrillo who used to pay their bills with scetches.

My absolute favourite: The pink house!

A different side to Montmartre

Heading up the hill towards the crowds 

September 30th and 28ºC